Axle Swap
Project "Urban Assault Vehicle" Receives a Dana 44 and Corporate 14 bolt full float
axle swap

One
of the nice things about building a full size 69-91 Blazer/Jimmy is the interchangeability
of the front and rear axles. The plan was to upgrade the axles at
some point in the future when time and funds would be more appropriate, but that plan backfired after a 4 wheeling trip
left the ColoradoK5.com project
vehicle with grenaded spider gears in the rear 10 bolt axle. Decision time, replace the corporate 10-bolt with another
10-bolt (I think we all know the answer to that), or go with one of the
other options - Corporate 12-bolt, 14-bolt Semi-Float, 14-bolt Full-Float
or have Dynatrac build a very expensive custom Dana 60. After
weighing the pros and cons of the various axles, the decision was made to
swap in a Corporate 14-bolt (FF).
|
Pros and Cons of common rear GM axles |
|
Axle |
Pro |
Con |
| 10-bolt |
High ground clearance/very easy to find/Warn full
float kit available |
C-clip design/smallest ring & pinion of the bunch/considered
weak |
| 12-bolt |
High ground clearance/Larger ring & pinion/carrier
bearings than
10-bolt/Warn full float kit available |
C-clip design/not as strong as 14-bolt axles/getting harder to find |
| 14-bolt (SF) |
Larger ring & pinion than 12-bolt/6-lug pattern
available |
Less ground clearance than 10 and 12 bolt/C-clip
design/heavy |
| 14-bolt (FF) |
Strongest of the bunch and very affordable/very easy
to find |
Low ground clearance due to massive ring &
pinion/need 8-lug rims/very heavy |
At the same time all this was happening a friend had a
Dana 44 front axle with 4:10.1 gears for sale, the same gear ratio that
was commonly offered in a 14-bolt rear axle (I provided the excuse he
needed to upgrade to a Dana 60), thus saving the expense of re-gearing the
front 10-bolt axle and adding a little more strength up front.
|
Pros and Cons of common Front GM axles |
| Axle |
Pro |
Con |
| 10-bolt |
Stronger axle shafts available/easy to find |
0.313" wall axle tubes/most were 28 spline axle
shafts |
| Dana 44 |
30 spline axle shafts/0.5" wall axle tubes |
Necked-down axle shaft section |
| Dana 60 |
Large 9.75" ring gear/very strong/35 spline inner
axles |
1.375", 30 spline stub axles/Expensive/very heavy |
Rear
axle swap steps: 1. Decide and locate what axle you want
according to your needs and then arrange for transpiration (bring a
friend, these are heavy). If the axle is used this is a good time to go
through it and replace the gaskets, brakes, inside and outside bearings
and all seals. 2. Securely raise the rear of the vehicle on
a level surface (place jack stands under frame or sturdy bumper) making
sure to block the front wheels and remove rear wheels. (picture A) 3.
Start by removing the rear driveshaft (a plastic cup can be placed over
t-case output if it is a slip yoke to catch fluid, see picture D), shocks,
emergency brake cables, brake lines and differential vent tube. 4.
Place a bottle jack under each side of axle tube (picture E) and scrap
wood under pinion (weight of pinion will force axle to tip pinion down,
see picture C) and begin loosening u-bolts one side at a time, you can now
lower each side a little at a time until the axle is on the ground. 5.
Installation is in reverse order. Rear
axle swap Notes, 14-Bolt (FF): Things to look for when shopping for a rear
axle - Open the differential cover and inspect ring and pinion for burn
marks and chipped teeth, pinion seal for leaks, also inspect brake lines
and bearings for wear. I pulled the drums and the axle shafts and
inspected for wear (the drums were to far gone and could not be turned),
luckily the salvage yard exchanged them. It is generally a good idea
to replace the brakes, seals and bearings when swapping in a used axle, so
keep that in mind when you are inspecting an axle for wear. The
14-bolt (FF) uses a 1350 series u-joint and will not match up to the 1310
series u-joint that the 10-bolt driveshaft uses, so a trick u-joint (1310
on one side with 1350 on the other) will have to be used to accommodate
the two different sizes which can be purchased from a parts store or
driveshaft shop. On newer Chevy's, the brake backing plate (picture
H) will have to be changed to a press in style backing plate from a
14-bolt (SF) with 13" brakes. You will also need the spring
plates and u-bolts from a 14-bolt (FF) because the diameter of the axle
tube is larger. If you plan on installing A Detroit locker, be sure
to purchase an axle with an open carrier, the 14-bolts that have a factory
Limited Slip Differential came with a completely different carrier that
will not accept the Detroit. Front
axle swap steps: 1. Decide and locate what axle you want
according to your needs and then arrange for transpiration (bring a
friend, these are heavy). If the axle is used this is a good time to go
through it and replace the gaskets, brakes, inside and outside wheel bearings
and all seals. 2. Securely raise the front of the vehicle on
a level surface (place jack stands under frame or sturdy bumper) making
sure to set parking brake and remove front wheels. (picture K) 3.
Start by removing the brake lines, shocks and differential vent tube.
Here's where it gets fun, remove steering arm (3 cone washers) from
knuckle with large sledge hammer or impact fork. 4.
Place a bottle jack under each side of axle tube (picture K) and scrap
wood under pinion (weight of pinion will force axle to tip pinion down,
see picture C) and begin loosening u-bolts one side at a time, you can now
lower each side a little at a time until the axle is on the ground. 5.
Installation is in reverse order. Front
axle swap Notes, Dana 44: Things to look for when shopping for a front
axle - Open the differential cover and inspect ring and pinion for burn
marks and chipped teeth, also inspect ball joints, tie rods, pinion seal
for leaks, brakes and rotors, locking hubs etc., for extensive ware.
The Dana 44 utilized a slightly different brake-line connection bolt
(caliper end) which necessitated the need to change the brake lines to
match the Dana 44 axle. If you remove or do not have front degree
shims between the axle and the leaf springs, the centering pin on the
spring may have to be filed down so it doesn't bottom out in the spring perch.
- Steve Fox CK5
A |
B |
C |
| Rear 10-bolt removed |
14-bolt painted and
ready to be installed |
Scrap wood used to
hold pinion up |
D |
E |
F |
| Bottle jack used to
lift 14-bolt into place |
14-bolt on bottle
jacks |
14-bolt installed |
G |
H |
I |
| Side view of massive
8-lug drums |
Backing plate from
Suburban |
14-bolt before the
spacers were installed |
J |
K |
L |
| Side view after rear
axle install |
Removal of front
10-bolt axle |
Front 10-bolt removed
with Dana 44 ready for install |
M |
N |
O |
| Dana 44 installed |
Side view of Dana 44
8 lug rotor |
Axle swap finished
with "Ghetto Wheels" |
|